Exploring Paris’ rue des Martyrs

If you haven’t heard of Paris’ rue des Martyrs, that’s because it’s reserved for Parisians and seasoned travellers that have a “been there, done that” approach to the Eiffel Tower and the Champs-Élysées. This bobo paradise snakes through Montmartre (you’ll catch glimpses of the Sacré-Coeur), passes South Pigalle and ends in the heart of Paris’ 9eme arrondissement. New to the area? Here are my top must-dos when visiting la rue des Martyrs.

Where to shop

There are plenty of little fashion shops on this street – perfect for mastering that Parisian look. It’s also not uncommon to spot French celebrities doing some shopping or sipping something on a terrace. For clothing and accessories, here’s a selection of gems worth visiting: Des Petits Hauts, Le 54, Oradena, Zeit Paris Berlin, Chiffon et Basile, Les Petites, and LILA.

Photo courtesy of Antoine & Lili

For an alternative shopping experience, Antoine et Lili is nestled steps away from la rue des Abbesses in Montmartre. You may recognize their multi-coloured facade since they have various shops in Paris. Everything sold here is rainbow-coloured, from unparalleled attire to quirky accessories.

La Chaise Longue is a design shop that sells knick-knacks and fun gifts. I dare you to leave these stores without buying something. The Cool Republic and Colonel Shop are perfect for stylish home accessories, while Librairie L’atelier 9 is an independent neighbourhood bookstore with an ample selection of French books and paper goods.

Lastly, if you love the idea of idly browsing a typical Parisian florist, or walking around the city with a bouquet in tow, head to these stunning flower shops for gorgeous arrangements and Instagram-worthy views: Des Fleurs Pour Soi, La Garde Champêtre, and Les Fleurs d’Aline.

Where to eat

Photo courtesy of Le Café Marlette

On the weekend, head to Le Café Marlette and Le Pain Quotidien to brunch like the Parisians do. Both offer menu combos that include tea or coffee, fresh juice, pastries, and a main dish with an egg, soup or salad, yogurt or fromage blanc, ham, and cheese. UK-inspired Rose Bakery is where English-speaking expats hang out. The eatery’s cakes and scones are on point and they make a killer eggs benedict topped with spinach and bacon.

During warmer months, Yorgaki‘s bright white and blue terrace spills over with locals soaking up the sun, cold Greek coffee – or spanakopita – in hand. This Greek cafe and shop will please both sweet and savoury appetites, all year round.

Happy hour – or rather, apéritif – happens at BULOT BULOT Oyster bar. Their small space stocks the freshest seafood inspired by the coast of Normandy, along with a handful of tables and bar stools (some outside) that overlook rue des Martyrs. Grab a cocktail and choose between oysters, lobster rolls, smoked salmon, and much more.

Photo courtesy of BULOT BULOT / by Yann Deret

Le Comptoir Belge, Henri Le Roux Chocolatier et Caramélier, La Meringaie, Glaces Glazed, and Popelini will all satisfy your sweet tooth. All you need to do is choose between savouring Belgian waffles, chocolate or caramel, madeleines, meringue, ice cream, or choux pastries (yup, life is hard in Paris). Lastly, for a much-needed coffee break after a day of exploring, KB Cafeshop makes the best latte in the neighbourhood – and their sidewalk terrace gives onto the Sacré-Coeur.

Photo courtesy of Popelini

Where to shop for food & drinks

Palais des Thés has a boutique on rue des Martyrs while both Collection T and Neo. T. are non-chain shops with a unique selection. When I need to buy a gift (or satisfy my own guilty pleasure for quality goods made in France), my top three choices are all within walking distance from each other. La Chambre aux Confitures boasts a large selection of jams and marmalades, Artisan de la Truffe is all about truffles, and Kaviari Delikatessen sells fresh fish and other goods (think smoked salmon, blinis, and caviar) in a deli setting. Lastly, Maison Thielen is where you can find ready-made French meals (hence, the label traiteur), artisanal charcuteries, fine cheeses, local products, and more, all in a fresh and modern setting.

Photo courtesy of La Chambre aux Confitures

Maison Landemaine, Arnaud Delmontel, Farine&O, and Sébastien Gaudard are your quintessential Parisian bakeries and/or pastry shops. Their displays are as equally stunning as their confections. But for the ultimate in decadence, make your way to Fou de Pâtisserie, which just opened its second location on rue des Martyrs. If you’re not familiar with the concept, this boutique (and bi-monthly magazine) houses pâtisseries from the top pastry chefs in Paris under one roof. With truckloads of goodies arriving each morning, their selection includes sweets from the likes of Catherine Kluger, Jacques Genin, Cyril Lignac, and Pierre Hermé, among many others. The pastries here will set you back, but they’re worth sampling at least once. 

Photo courtesy of PAIN PAIN

Want to walk around Paris with a baguette in tow like a local? Head to PAIN PAIN, a boulangerie that was voted best baguette in Paris several years ago. Cheese lovers, head straight to Fromagerie Beillevaire to sample and purchase a mouthwatering selection of fromage (their butter and cheeses are used in Marlette’s quintessential brunch dishes).

Finally, visit Aux 4 Saisons, the street’s open-air market, and Au Bout Du Champ, which sells seasonal, organic fruits and veggies that hail straight from local producers (freshly-picked goods arrive daily, and are picked that same morning).

Where to play

Cabaret Michou

From trendy Parisians, to bobos, and the after work crowd, Le Dream Café‘s terrace is perpetually full. Founded by legendary nightlife personality, Michou, Cabaret Michou is Montmartre’s iconic drag cabaret. An evening at this joint may seem kitsch, but it’s one of those things you have to try at least once. Located on rue des Martyrs’ 18eme quarter near Clichy, grab your friends and make a night out of chez Michou.

Coveted Addresses

Have you visited la rue des Martyrs? Let me know in the comments below!

Editor’s Note: This article was last updated in May 2020.