Exploring Montmartre: An Alternative Guide to the 18ème

Although I do love a good stroll through the Place du Tertre to the sounds of an accordionist playing “La Vie en Rose,” idling around the Sacré-Coeur, and savouring a crème brûlée at the Amélie Café, I also revel in unearthing the 18th arrondissement’s lesser-known, local haunts. Looking to discover the neighbourhood from a local perspective? Here is an alternative guide to exploring Montmartre and its surroundings.

Photo courtesy of Café Lomi

Where to eat

Start your day by grabbing coffee at Café Tabac Paris. Located just a five-minute walk from Abbesses metro station, here is where the locals begin theirs. Take a seat and enjoy their adorable space or take your beverage to go and explore the streets of Montmartre. And if you need a second latte to brave the Sacré Coeur’s steps, head to Café Lomi. If this spot sounds familiar, it’s because they’re the brewers behind the coffee at Shakespeare and Company Café).

Photo courtesy of Pain Pain

Next, don’t forget to pick up dessert from the irresistible, La Bossue along with a baguette or croissant from Pain Pain – for later of course!

Photo courtesy of La REcyclerie

If you’re looking to take a break in an eco-friendly locale with a laptop or book in tow, a visit to La REcyclerie is a welcome change from Paris’ hustle and bustle. Nestled near Porte de Clignancourt, this converted train station houses a restaurant/cafe, an outdoor terrace, a garden, an urban farm (with a weekly market), among other delights.

Photo courtesy of Soul Kitchen

For foodies, Melbourne’s much-loved Hardware Société serves a killer brunch and coffee from Australian roasters, Padre. Soul Kitchen is great for healthy fare or a latte, while rue Ordener’s Sunset dishes out breakfast (and weekend brunch) and lunch on their terrace, along with dinner and cocktails when the sun goes down.

Photo courtesy of Brasserie Barbès / by Julie Ansiau

Take the time to walk around this neighbourhood and don’t be afraid to get lost – the 18th arrondissement has plenty more to offer on the outskirts of the butte. Located just off of Montmartre in the Barbès quarter, the appropriately named Brasserie Barbès is the local and hip brasserie in town in a previously seedy part of town that is undergoing gentrification. It’s also where you’ll spot several French artists and stars on the terrace come summer. From Barbès onwards to Pigalle, where the same owners recently opened the much anticipated Bouillon Pigalle. Serving up traditional French fare with a modern twist, this 19th century-inspired eatery is where Parisians can dine – and spend (this place is easy on the wallet) – just like they used to back in the day (hence, the name bouillon). I almost always indulge in their oeuf mayonnaise, steak-frites, and chocolate profiterole, all of it washed down with their house red wine.

Photo courtesy of Roberta

Steps away from rue des Abbesses, Roberta’s large space houses an Italian restaurant, a butcher, cheese, and fresh pasta counter, along with a fine goods shop. Gloria and Vava are tiny gems just waiting to be discovered. The former, on rue d’Orsel, serves irresistible tapas (or comidinhas) whipped up by their Brazilian chef along with wine and cocktails to match their small bites, while the latter, on rue Véron, creates small dishes perfect for sharing using Mediterranean-inspired seasonal produce.  

Photo courtesy of Bulot Bulot / by Yann Deret

Nestled on the corner of rue des Martyrs and rue d’Orsel, BULOT BULOT Oyster bar is the perfect happy hour spot as they specialize in fresh, bite-size seafood faves (oysters, whelks, lobster rolls, and much more) that hail from the coast. Their cocktails are also worth sampling, my favourites being their Moscow Mule and Spritz. 

Bijou isn’t your average Neapolitan pizza joint. While the price point is higher, think of it as a gourmet experience. How does pizza topped with truffle or Black Angus bresaola and with a dough made of champagne sound? In summer, enjoy their terrace on the airy Place Charles-Dulli at the foot of the historic Théâtre de l’Atelier to the sound of Montmartre’s local street musicians and an ice-cold bottle of Lambrusco. And for a swanky meal, head to Les Tantes Jeanne. Meat lovers will enjoy their classic French selection that comprises terrine, tartare, and foie gras appetizers, as well as various cuts of meats (including Wagyu beef) as mains.

Photo courtesy of La Régulière / by Maxime Verret / Furniture and space design by Johanna Lapray & Hugo L’Ahellec

Where to shop

In a sea of tourist shops, Montmartre is also home to a host of charming boutiques that will make gift shopping a breeze. Atelier Nota specializes in stationery, notebooks, pens, and cards, Espace Louisette sells unique homeware, along with handmade jewellery and purses, while brightly lit La Régulière is the perfect spot to shop books, art, and break for coffee or tea thanks to their in-house cafe. Right across the street from La Régulière, in the heart of Paris’ “Little Africa” (la Goutte d’Or), you’ll find Maison Château Rouge, which is where urban streetwear meets African garb (think traditional wax fabrics). Nestled halfway between the Sacré-Cœur and Barbès, Isakin’s bold streetwear is the product of rapper turned entrepreneur, Thomas Traoré, who proudly dresses the neighbourhood in tees that boldly state “Ici C’est Barbès” and “Barbès Beach”. Dapper men should head to Sauver le Monde des Hommes for tailored jackets and shirts, stylish tees emblazoned with a Montmartre stitch, as well as smart accessories and products to keep their beards in top shape.

Photo courtesy of Antoine & Lili

Both rue d’Orsel and la rue des Martyrs have plenty of interesting shopping spots, including several vintage stores and Antoine & Lili (rue des Martyrs), a colourful boutique that sells everything from clothing, to accessories, and fun knick-knacks. Other quaint shops within walking distance that will effortlessly add flair to your style include Heroines, Make My D…, and finally, Spree. This concept clothing store recently expanded to include a cafe to their offering. Sip your brew while admiring Spree Café’s in-house gallery after some shopping right across the street.

Photo courtesy of Spree

A pit stop at the eclectic Tombées du Camion boutique may strike you as odd at first due to its decor made up of baby doll heads, but you’ll surely find a memento to take home once you start digging in this vintage-inspired gem. Just a few steps away, visit Little Big Galerie for one-of-a-kind works of art (their focus is photography) made by local French and European artists. Finally, Joel Knafo’s contemporary art gallery displays and sells pieces by street artists Obey (Shepard Fairey), Miss.Tic, and much more.

Where to play

If you’re interested in visiting the Moulin Rouge, how about seeing it from a local perspective? Spend your Saturday night dancing at La Machine du Moulin Rouge next door and come back the following day to enjoy the Bar à Bulles (one floor up) and its outdoor terrace located directly behind the windmill.

Photo courtesy of Terrass Hotel / by Christophe Bielsa

Bring your evening to a close in style at the glamorous Terrass Hotel’s rooftop terrace. Along with breathtaking views of the City of Light (read: Eiffel Tower), they also serve expertly-crafted cocktails. I recommend the Moulin Rouge cocktail. Be sure to arrive before the sun sets as this coveted spot fills up fast!

Coveted Addresses

What are your favourite places to explore in Montmartre? Let me know below!

Editor’s Note: This article was last updated in October 2021.

Opening photo courtesy of Buvette